Oh, A Black Dandy...?
This is a fascinating chat. Also, intersectionality: something we very often miss.
Who would have thought that talking about the MET gala could be this interesting? People tend to discard fashion as 'nothing' or 'superfluous' or 'not necessary'. They couldn't be more misguided. That sense of laissez faire only underscores their sense (and possession) of privilege and the need to not delve on what's deemed important for others. Because for some people, fashion is definitely much more than just ‘clothes’. Just ask a Black Dandy.
The main topic here is discussing the concept of the "Black Dandy" in relation to the Met Gala theme, which is based on Monica El Miller's book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. The conversation features Dapper Dan, June Ambrose, and Ali Richmond -all with impeccable credentials- who explore various aspects of Black dandyism.
I really enjoyed this convo, but for those who do not have time for it, here's a quick recap:
They define the Black Dandy: This discussion challenges a singular definition, acknowledging the evolution of the term and its diverse interpretations. It's not merely about clothing but also encompasses a discipline of self-presentation, rebellion against stereotypes, and control over one's narrative. The historical context, when you trace it back to pre-slavery times and its use during and after slavery for both assimilation and rebellion, makes you see it’s not just fashion.
Of course there's a historical Context: The video explores the historical evolution of Black dandyism, from its roots in pre-slavery African cultures and the post-slavery era's use for assimilation and rebellion, to its influence on hip-hop culture and modern fashion and the significance of style to shape Black identities.
The influence of Hip-Hop: Hip-hop's has had a significant role in redefining and expanding the concept of the Black dandy, emphasizing recontextualization, regional variations (e.g., Harlem vs. Los Angeles), and the influence of figures like Andre Harrell and the "ghetto fabulous" aesthetic.
The Met Gala and its Politics: The video explains the Met Gala's function as a fundraiser for the Costume Institute, highlighting the financial aspects and the influence of Anna Wintour and brand sponsorships on the guest list and attire. This year it'll have to deal with representation and economic influence. I almost lost it when one of the panelists wondered how someone like Charlize Theron would interpret the assignment.
Power and Influence (of course): The discussion goes into the question of whether Black people have true power in the fashion industry, beyond influence and product promotion. They conclude that while Black consumers hold significant economic power, true power in the industry requires control over distribution and manufacturing. And this is because fashion goes beyond the realm of clothes, of course.
Notable Figures: The video mentions numerous influential figures who embody aspects of Black dandyism, including Dapper Dan, June Ambrose, Ali Richmond, James Baldwin, Miles Davis, Andre Leon Talley, Andre 3000, Fonzworth Bentley, Alpo Martinez, Frank Lucas, and others.
Oh, yes. Fashion.
Just things taken from a pile of 'stuff'.
XOXO
I love people who say they don't care about fashion when you know they pick out their outfit every single day.
ReplyDeleteMaybe they don't care about high fashion, or fashion designers, but we all care about how we look and what we wear or we'd be wearing a one-color uniform every day.
That we still picked out from a "pile of stuff."
xoxo
Gurrl! Same.
DeleteEverything IS fashion. We are born naked, the rest is DRAG.
That's something people don't seem to get??
XOXO
Interesting, however when you're like me and the only fashion choice is: will it be the heather sweatpants or the gray sweatpants, fashion isn't that important.
ReplyDeleteAnd then that's why we can read in you: white, cisgender, of a certain age and with means and time at your disposal. The rest of the populace is working. It's part of your set of privileges.
DeleteAnd when you do go to work, you wear the orange bib and do Work Drag. Fashion, babes. Or you think they did not thinl about choosing that horrid shade of orange from a pile of... stuff??
XOXO
Big says,
ReplyDeleteHistory has a way of influencing everything we do from what we wear to what we eat. Fashion...but of course we all have a "personal sense of fashion." As Bob said, we choose something from the closet every day. Nowadays, I think of clothing in the same way I think of home decoration: Leave "rendy" on the shelf, but wear what you like and what makes you comfortable.
XOXO
History is always interconnected. Always teaching us something.
DeleteAnd what we choose (or seem to just 'get') is still talking volumes about who we are. And even choosing what's comfy says something about us: from Patagonia to Levi's there's ALWAYS a story.
XOXO
Ouch. You read my beads, honey! This is fascinating and something I certainly have considered from time to time - that fashion is representative of a culture, of the times. I love it when the 'why' gets connected to a picture, and that's what's happening here. Obsession with designer labels can be traced back to the original vogueing period. And this is an extension of that. I can't wait to see how drag influences everyday fashion. Everything spills over into everything else. And the trace pattern runs across the gamut like an etch-a-sketch, connecting one movement to another. Love it. It's history. And I do love me some history. Especially if it gay! Kizzes.
ReplyDeleteBabes, I have nothing else to add.
DeleteAnd same here: history is my hobby. If it's gay, it's my drug of choice.
XOXO
Fascinating. Thanks for the Cliff Notes this time!
ReplyDeleteHaha
DeleteYou're welcome!
But it is a fabulous conversation. I just scratched the surface there with some bullet points. These people know their shit!
XOXO
Les Sapeurs / Les Dandies are a phenomenon in the Congo. Some men go out of their way spending money on second hand French and Italian designer clothing to dress very well and make a statement. They love strutting around Kinsasha and other cities in the Congo in their designer finery. Most of the men are part of the Congo’s middle class, as only they can get bank loans which many of them use to buy their designer clothes.
ReplyDelete-Rj
OMG I think they talk about them here!
DeleteThey dress to the nines and then go out and take pics. And the attires are FABULOUS.
XOXO
On trouve des dandys africains dans les deux Congo. C’est un mouvement et une déclaration lancés contre le colonialisme, car bien s’habiller permettait aux hommes africains de se sentir égaux aux colonialists blancs de France et de Belgique.
DeleteVous devriez voir le film «Dimanche à Brazzaville».
-Beau Mec
Merci! Je vais chercher ce film. Et bien sûr, le colonialisme est une force motrice derrière l'établissement d'une identité à travers la mode.
DeleteXOXO
My longest time friend and good sister Vera, is definitely a black Dandy.His personality and his fashion crack me up he reminds me so much of this guy. And nobody was more entertaining talking about the Met Gala then Andre Leon Talley! He's going to be Irreplaceable but funnily enough my friend Vera could be a dead ringer for Andre.
ReplyDeleteI love Vera already!
DeleteAnd ALT was the ish! OMG the style, the knowledge, the CLASS!
XOXO